A perfect three foot tube is big enough to propel you forward with
enough velocity to get you airborne. It's also small enough to ...
well ... hug you.
and especially boogie boarding, is an act of love-making between
you and the wave. And if you define "love-making" keyed off
definition of love
is granting another the space to be the way they are and the way
they aren't so they can change if they want to and they don't have
you have the perfect metaphor for
What other way can you be with a wave other
the way it is?
What other way can a wave be with you other
than with the way you are?
I paddle out, then wait for a set to come. When it
comes, I watch where the best peak will form. It will form to the
left of where the curl will produce the best tubular
section. Once I've gotten a bead on the spot I want, I paddle
towards it slowly and warily, getting into the best position ...
and then I stop and simply wait. As the wave comes upon me, I
stroke powerfully. Given this is boogie boarding, I kick as well.
The wave lifts me up - an indescribable feeling. Raised up.
I throw my weight forward, digging in my right shoulder at the same
time cranking the turn, sending an arc of spray to my
left as the curl thunders over my head.
With my head and upper torso inside the tube, the curl hammers
against my left shoulder as the wave breaks behind me. There's
plenty of water below me and plenty of shoulder in
front of me. It's exhilarating - there's no other
for it. Eventually the ride ends as the wave feathers out and
merges once again with the ocean. I tread water for a while,
watching a pelican flying overhead. Then I duck under the water,
flipping my hair away from my eyes as I surface. In one smooth
movement, I grab the boogie board, pull my body up on to it, point
myself back toward the line up, and paddle out again.
It goes on and on and on like this. It doesn't end
because of cold water.
has turned on
for me. No, it ends when I'm satisfied. It's really clear to me
what an amazing chance this was, a chance calling me to take it -
and I took it. All the other surfers leave the water and go home,
leaving these perfect tubes all to me? Unheard of.
Impossible. The cold water mysteriously
for me (Mysteriously? Really?). And most amazing of all, a
boogie board washes up with the waves and gets covered in
in exactly the right place as if it's to wait there for